South Coast Shopper

62706 Hwy 101 S

P.O. Box 1440

Coos Bay, OR 97420

Out Our Back Door

Bay Islands Fun to Visit
Tom Baake
06/01/2023
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Although we don't hear much about them, there are more than a half-dozen islands in the vast Coos Bay estuary, and several in the Umpqua River near Reedsport and the Siuslaw River in Florence. There are even some in the Coquille River and Rogue River.
Some are privately owned, but others -- such as those in Coos Bay -- belong to the local port district, and can be visited. They're the result in-bay dumping of dredge spoils from channel deepening projects. (Nowadays they take the spoils out to sea.) At least one of them – Valino Island near Charleston – is naturally occurring, and had people living on it years ago. It's part of the South Slough National Esturaine Research Reserve, and can be visited.
Seldom visited except by hardy birdwatchers and geocachers, the islands are self-contained wildlife sanctuaries just minutes from busy Bay Area towns. And unlike Oregon's ocean islands that are off-limits to people, the bay islands don't have such restrictions, although as noted some are private property.
Landing on some of them can be tricky, since they're mostly surrounded by thick, sticky mud that's revealed to varying degrees during low tide. High tide brings shallow water lapping over the mudflats, making landfall a bit easier.
As with any water-related activity, wind is also a factor. You can pretty much count on the north wind kicking up every summer afternoon. So, mindful of these issues, on a recent nice morning with favorable conditions, I launched my kayak from the Eastside boat ramp about two hours before low tide, and paddled leisurely with the outgoing flow.
I followed the channel, at first heading west, then swinging north along the shoreline directly across from the city of Coos Bay. Even here, so close to town, the natural world was constantly revealed, from the stately lift-offs of snow-white herons and deep-blue egrets, to the fleets of small shorebirds.
After a quarter-mile of paddling, I cleared Eastside's White Point and crossed the channel to the island. Surrounded by mudflats, the island's best landing place at both high and low tide is on the south end.
Once ashore, I pulled my kayak well up onto the beach and tied it to a big half-buried log, and proceeded to explore. Mixed into the cast-up stuff were huge, artistically-swirled burls and stumps, along with all manner of driftwood and many old weathered planks, but happily not much trash.
It isn't practical to walk around the island at waterline, not only because of the mud, but also because of the many small inlets and coves that are tricky to cross. Better to head up from the shoreline, threading a way through the low-growing pickleweed and other salt-tolerant plants.
Faint game trails run along just above the wrack line, while thick vegetation effectively shuts off the island's interior.
After a bit more exploration, I returned to the beach where I noticed the stick I'd stuck in the sand at waterline when I landed was under a few inches of water now, and little waves were lapping up towards my kayak. The tide had turned!
Now I could continue my trip, paddling north briefly before slipping into the channel that separates the two largest islands. Glistening with exposed mud just a few hours previously, it held enough water for me to paddle through and turn south, staying in deeper water offshore. With the incoming tide carrying me back up-bay, I paralleled the east side of the island, crossed the channel to White Point, and let the tide assist my return to the Eastside boat ramp. And I was already thinking about my next sojourn to one of our intriguing local islands. . .
(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is co-author of "Oregon South Coast Canoe, Kayak and Stand-up Paddle Guide," available at book stores and the Coos Bay Visitor Center.)
Springtime in Port Orford
Tom Baake
05/25/2023
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PHOTO CAPTION: Visitors approach the Cape Blanco Lighthouse for a tour of the ground floor and workroom of the historic structure.

By Tom Baake
Port Orford's fascinating historical attractions -- Cape Blanco Lighthouse, Hughes House and Port Orford Lifeboat Station museum – are all reopened again after a few seasons of limited operation due to Covid and other challenges. Right now is a good time to check things out before "tourist time" gets under way.
There's been one significant change affecting access to the lighthouse: The access road on which visitors walk from the lighthouse parking area to the light itself has been closed due to erosion, and no vehicles are allowed. You can walk to the lighthouse. Once at the lighthouse, visitors can view artifacts, photos and other memorabilia, and take a guided tour of the ground floor workroom, but there's no longer access up into the light itself. There are also no restrooms at the light.
Cape Blanco Lighthouse is Oregon's oldest continuously-operating lighthouse, built in 1870. It's also the most westerly lighthouse in the contiguous U.S., has the highest focal plane above the sea (256 feet), and had Oregon's first woman keeper – Mabel E. Bretherton, whose tenure began in March 1903.
Also within Cape Blanco State Park is the historic Hughes House, built in 1898 for a pioneer family. The ornate, Victorian-inspired house has been authentically restored to give a glimpse of what life was like on this far-flung frontier. Each room of the 3,000 sq. ft., 11-room house is decorated with furniture and period pieces. Knowledgeable volunteers offer interesting tidbits of history.
Equally impressive is the Hughes House setting above the Sixes River, with views of surrounding pastures, forests and the ocean. Below the Hughes House is nifty picnic area along the Sixes River, as well as trails out along the river and to the beach, with imposing Castle Rock just offshore. Other trails throughout the park lead to postcard-perfect viewpoints, and there are several potential loops.
Meantime, in town, the Port Orford Lifeboat Station museum in Port Orford Heads State Park occupies former U.S. Coast Guard barracks, with displays, photos and memorabilia about life-saving and coast-watch activities, as well as Port Orford history.
A 36-ft. motor lifeboat is on display outside the museum, and everything's set beneath and amidst venerable spruce, cedar and pines, along with vintage landscaping plants and a resident population of nonchalant deer.
Well-marked, chip-lined hiking trails lead to panoramic vista points, and you can look down to Nellies Cove, where lifesaving boats were kept at the ready. All in all, whether hiking a soaring headland trail or absorbed in museum minutiae, you'll find lots of stimulus for mind and body on a fine Spring day in Port Orford.
Getting There
Cape Blanco State Park is about 5 miles north of Port Orford. Watch for signs along US 101 marking the park turnoff, and follow the access road, which passes the Hughes House in about 5 miles and reaches the lighthouse at about 6 miles.
Access to Port Orford Lifeboat Station museum is via 9th St. in mid-town Port Orford. Proceed west up Coast Guard Hill (follow the yellow line) until you reach the park All three sites are open from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., Wednesday to Monday (including "holiday Mondays"). All three are closed on Tuesdays, so remember that when planning a visit!
Admission to Hughes House and Port Orford Heads State Park is free, while lighthouse tours are $2 for visitors 16 and older, and free for federal pass holders and those under 16. Get more details at www.capeblancoheritagesociety.com
Other Port Orford attractions include three significant beaches – Battle Rock at the south end of town, Agate Beach at Tseriadun State Recreation Site on the "west side" (Pacific Ocean) of town and Paradise Point State Recreation Site at the north end of town. There's also a mid-town wetland interpretive area with raised wooden walkways and viewing spots, as well as historic Battle Rock Park, a designated scenic bicycle route, and the unique "Dolly Dock" on which fishing boats are hoisted and parked on trailers.
As might be deduced, there's lots to see and do in pretty Port Orford. Spring on down!
(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of local guidebooks available at bookstore and the Coos Bay Visitor Center.)
Ridgeline Views Can Be Elusive But Fun to Find
Tom Baake
05/11/2023
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PHOTO CAPTION: A hiker takes in the view from Iron Mountain south of Powers.
People occasionally ask about ridgelines in our region. Some have intriguing-sounding names like Panther Ridge, Blue Ridge, Euphoria Ridge and the Iron Range. Are they difficult to get to? How did they get those names? Do they have big views?
I had the same questions. I pictured myself figuring out how to find these places, then walking atop distinctive escarpments and taking in vast soaring vistas. As it turns out, the ridgelines are relatively accessible, but most are surrounded by forest – grown in with trees!
There's not much difference between a ridgeline road than those lower down, except for occasional openings that offer brief views.
There are, however, some awesome high points and vista spots here and there. Probably the most famous is Hanging Rock in the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest south of Powers.
It was called "Coos County's Geological Wonder" back when they really knew how to nickname things. It's a distinctive, dome-shaped sentinel at the end of an outcrop of similar but less-prominent domes and at 3500 feet, it has commanding views, thanks to the fact that the forest drops dramatically away to the south and east.
Hanging Rock is part of Panther Ridge, which also boasts an 11-mile ridgeline trail accessible from four places along the way. There are several good vistas, although none as dramatic as Hanging Rock.
And speaking of panthers, the name dates back to the era when cougars were often called panthers.
Farther back in the Powers Ranger District is the Iron Mountain Trail, which traverses a protected botanical area with dozens of varieties of flora and trees. Here too is a memorable vista down a short side trail, revealing a seemingly limitless spread of splendid woodlands.
Euphoria Ridge is near the community of Bridge in eastern Coos County. It has a handful of places that offer views to the south, including parts of an escarpment called the China Wall, as it resembles (from certain angles) the famed Great Wall of China.
Closer to the Coos Bay/North Bend area is Blue Ridge, a distinctive ridgeline southeast of town.
It's administered by the Bureau of Land Management, and offers trails for motorized dirt bikes, mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians. An important forest fire lookout stood atop Blue Ridge for many decades, but was removed as technology and communications improved, rendering many lookout towers obsolete.
Today the ridgeline is home to a few communication towers, and trees are growing in to block the views, but you can still drive right up to the highest point and get some view fragments.
Mountaintops often have the same issues as ridgelines when it comes to views. There are still some awesome view places, but others are getting grown in. Some in the Port Orford vicinity such as Grassy Knob, Rocky Peak and Humbug Mountain are kept relatively clear by volunteers and work crews.
On the subject of Humbug Mountain, its trail to the top was and is rather strenuous, but the promise of a big rewarding vista once at the top kept many people motivated. Imagine their disappointment to find the views all grown in at the top! Selective logging in recent years solved the problem (for now) and some of the memorable views have been partially restored.
All the places mentioned in this article are discussed in much greater detail in my guidebooks, "Out Our Back Door" and "Oregon South Coast Bicycle Ride Guide." All the write-ups have detailed directions and accurate maps, and the bike book has elevation charts as well.
If you're into exploring further, obtain the combined US Forest Service Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest/Bureau of Land Management Coos Bay District map, available at USFS offices in Powers and Gold Beach, and the BLM Coos Bay District office in North Bend .
Most of all, have fun finding your way to some of the region's most impressive "high points."
(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of guidebooks available at bookstores and the Coos Bay Visitor Center.)
Find Lots of Ways to Enjoy Spring Weather
Tom Baake
05/18/2023
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PHOTO CAPTION: A visitor takes in views of waterways and wildflowers at South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve near Charleston.

Winter's ferocious rainstorms and biting wind seemed like a distant memory as temperatures soared to record highs last weekend, hopefully not a portent of things to come. Still, thanks to all the late rain, we are amidst a well-watered year for trees, brush and wildflowers, and if all the blooms and blossoms are any indication, it's going be a good fruit year.
But everything dries out quickly. Which is why I encourage people to get out and enjoy the splendid seasonal settings before summer arrives with its pattern of foggy mornings and evenings, and wind the rest of the time.
In fact, the interlude on either side of Memorial Day brings some of our nicest weather.
You can enjoy it in a variety of ways. If there are youngsters in your life, join the fun at the Mayfly Festival set for this Saturday, May 20 in Coos Bay's Mingus Park. More details can be found elsewhere in this edition of the Shopper.
The South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve near Charleston offers group hikes and other guided activities throughout the summer. The South Coast Striders hiking group also offers regular guided hikes. Get details at their web site www.coostrails.com.
On the subject of South Slough, this is one of our top local getaways, with many miles of hiking trails and waterways to explore. You can bring your own canoe, kayak or stand-up paddle board, or if you're joining one of the group paddles, you can rent a kayak.
As for the trails, they can be enjoyed solo, with family and friends, or on one of the just-mentioned guided walks. There are short trails -- such as the Ten Minute Trail from the South Slough Interpretive Center -- and more ambitious hikes, such as the North Trail, which is one of several walks that can be made into loops to get more soothing views of woods and waterways.
Getting There
From US 101 in Coos Bay or North Bend, follow signs to Charleston, State Parks and Ocean Beaches. From Charleston, head west on Cape Arago Highway. Just west of town, go left (S) on Seven Devils Rd., following signs to South Slough Reserve and Bandon.
The road curves uphill along soaring ridgelines and plunging canyons. At 4.3 miles is South Slough Interpretive Center. You can get a trail map and waterway map at the center or from the brochure rack, or from the South Slough website. Just behind the center is the Ten-Minute Tour, offering an overview of the slough, with interpretive signs that identify plants, trees and other features.
About 0.14 mile along on the Ten-Minute Tour is the cutoff to the North Creek Trail, which as might be presumed, makes a trek northward, negotiating forests and slopes on a well-engineered route that eventually drops down to the slough, crosses a footbridge and connects with trails back to the interpretive center. (This is the Slough's lone "dog-free" trail.) You can of course retrace your route on the North Trail back to the Interpretive Center, but it's also possible to make several loops so you don't go over the same territory twice.
The same could be said for the Hidden Creek and Big Cedar trails that begin about halfway down to slough-level from the Interpretive Center. You can go down one way and return the other.
As noted, Sough Slough is a gem of the local recreation scene, and rounds out a visit to other Charleston attractions, from ocean beaches to the soaring headlands of Cape Arago to the botanical gardens at Shore Acres State Park to the excellent Charleston Marine Life Center.
So whether you're a local or a visitor, here's hoping you're inspired by this wonderful weather to get out and enjoy some scenic seasonal delights.

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of regional guidebooks available at bookstores and the Coos Bay Visitor Center.)