A cadre of volunteers spent the better part of a recent Saturday sprucing up the scenic Millicoma Marsh Trail (MMT) in Coos Bay’s Eastside district, capping off a handful of improvements to the popular destination. The impressive turnout was further evidence of public support and appreciation of the recreational offerings in South Coast communities.

Established in the 1990s for education and recreation, the MMT has served as an occasional outdoor “classroom” for life sciences students on short field trips from adjacent Millicoma Elementary School and the middle school.

Spearheading the efforts is retired Coos Bay life science teacher Jamie Fereday, who has obtained grants from agencies and organizations over the years to fund and maintain the trail system.  Agencies ranging from the Coos Bay School District to the Port of Coos Bay, along with the Army Corps of Engineers, the City of Coos Bay, South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve, the Coos Forest Protective Association and the Audubon Society have been involved.

Overseeing the MMT is a management group from some of the just-mentioned agencies and organizations, and interested citizens. They follow a detailed management program, and help coordinate work sessions. School district crews keep the trails mowed.

The latest work is funded by J.A. Mogan Foundation, Ford Family Trust, Travel Southern Oregon, Coos Bay/North Bend Rotary Club, Oregon Parks Foundation, Coos Bay School District and Brian Price, with alternate bids from Oregon State Parks recreational trails program, the Three Rivers Indian tribe and Marshfield High School Zonta program.

Perhaps the most noticeable project is the enlarged parking area, with bollards to keep vehicles off the track and ballfield. Another task upgraded the half-mile Swallow Loop trail, a short offshoot of the main trail. Previous sessions installed student-created interpretive signposts at key intersections.

Meantime, on the main trail, volunteers covered muddy stretches with wood chips. Still to come are brushing and graveling the remainder of the main trail. Fereday said the pricetag for all the work will be about $79,000, with a 20 percent in-kind contribution required, which can be in the form of volunteer work. He said he’ll need further foundation grants and funding. Volunteers have even established a bottle drop, with proceeds earmarked for the MMT. For more information e-mail mmt@cbk12.com.

Also helping during the recent work session were members of Oregon Bay Area Beautification group.

In addition to being a peaceful oasis not far from busy city streets, the MMT is one of the area’s prime birdwatching places. According to the Audubon book Birding the Southern Oregon Coast, the blackberry brambles shelter passerines and at least three kinds of sparrows, while marsh wrens, white tailed kites, bald eagles, redtailed hawks, Cooper’s hawks, merlins and American kestrel have also been spotted.

As for mammals, beavers occasionally move in, although there are barriers and “beaver deceiver” pipes. Alas, there are also destructive South American rodents called nutria in residence. They flee from humans and canines, so don’t be deterred. Speaking of dogs, they’re welcome on the trail, but keep them off the ballfield and track.

If you’ve never explored this Bay Area recreational gem, consider a visit. And even if you’ve been there before, stop by to see the improvements. The trails are open dawn to dusk year round with free access, but stay off the ballfield and track when school is in session

Getting There

From the “Y” intersection at the south end of Coos Bay, follow the sign to Allegany, Coos River. Cross Isthmus Slough Bridge. Once across, bear left (N) on 6th Ave. and follow it 0.9 mile to a “T” intersection with D St. Turn left (W) on D St. and in 2 blocks turn right (N) on 4th Ave. In one block, park in a cobblestone lot above the ballfield or go down the driveway and park by the field. Walk east across the ballfield toward the scoreboard and you’ll see interpretive signs for the trail.

You can take an out and back walk, or make loops. To begin, follow the trail east about 0.2 mile to a “Y intersection with a memorial bench. Keep going east for another 0.2 mile to a wooden shelter overlooking the saltmarsh.

To make the loop, go north from the memorial bench just mentioned and follow the trail north, then west for about a half-mile. Big views of the bay open up. At a “Y” intersection, go left (S) back to the ballfield.

Whether you take walks long or short,  here’s hoping you have fun exploring!

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of regional guidebooks.)

Washed out for a short stretch during fierce storms in January, the road to Cape Arago and Shore Acres State Parks near Charleston has been repaired and reopened. But during the closure I couldn’t help recalling that old saying: You don’t miss your water till your well runs dry.

Yes, I tend to take it for granted. Postcard-perfect Sunset Bay. World-famous Shore Acres. Amazing geology. Spectacular crashing waves. Fun pocket beaches and coves. Clifftop Oregon Coast Trail. Historic pack trail and WWII bunkers. Simpson Reef sea lion overlook. Picnic tables strategically placed for maximum views. Fascinating tidepools.

There really is a lot to see.

This occurred to me as I was taking a quick inventory of all those things and places just mentioned. It was like seeing old friends again.

I started near Shore Acres, since the now-fixed washout was in that vicinity.

Thanks to all the recent rain, the Shore Acres gardens were practically vibrating with greenery and blossoms about to burst.

In addition to a traditional English garden kept neat and trim and embellished with a seasonal progression of plants and flowers, there’s a Japanese-inspired garden with a sunken pool. A glass greenhouse houses humidity-loving “air plants” and other specimens. A rose garden is a seasonal attraction, and there’s an adjacent herb garden.

Below and just south of Shore Acres is Simpson Beach, with seething surf and cliffs of embedded geological formations called concretions.

The Oregon Coast Trail (OCT) traverses approximately four miles of headlands from Sunset Bay to Cape Arago, passing Shore Acres and the other features. You can also access the OCT from pullouts along Cape Arago Highway.

The road passes a group campground, then goes by Norton Gulch before heading up again. Next is a turnout that features the best view of Cape Arago Lighthouse. Here too is the original entrance to the Shore Acres estate. You can still walk it, but take the foot trail out along the clifftop bluffs as it offers killer views, more weird geology, and the estate’s tennis court.

Not far along from Shore Acres is the northern trailhead of the Cape Arago Pack Trail. About 1/3rd mile up the trail are the WWII bunkers -- windowless and roofless concrete buildings. This historic trail then heads up into the hills and rolls along a ridgeline before descending to Cape Arago State Park. Meantime, back on Cape Arago Highway, next up is the Simpson Reef sea lion overlook, with multitudes of the yowling critters vying for territory on the little reef island and outcrops.

Not far past there is the tip of the cape, with more breathtaking views and paths down to three coves, the southernmost one featuring tidepools.

Although this a lot of fun, it isn’t even a full list of the potential opportunities. For example, I didn’t even mention three beaches: Bastendorff, Smelt and Lighthouse, nor did I have room for details of two inspiring hikes.

It should also be noted that as of Jan. 1, the parking fee at Shore Acres is now $10. (This is per carload. Entrance is still free.) Also, you can still park by the entrance and walk in for free.

So outfit yourself with waterproof footgear and appropriate outerwear and go ahead and visit Shore Acres or any of the other famous places. You’ll have them practically to yourself.

I’m not exaggerating. This has happened to me more than once – and again the other day – when I go out to the cape on a calm winter day to find not a single soul out and about. The ocean lay as flat as a carpet clear to the horizon, so there weren’t even any stormwatchers. Not at Shore Acres, not at Sunset Beach, not at the sea lion overlook, not at the cape. Very Twilight Zone-y. Where the heck was everyone? Ah well, they’ll be back soon enough, and there’s plenty of scenery to go around. Enjoy it!

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of local guidebooks.)

The Oregon Dunes beckon year round, but there are some fun seasonal phenomena that only happen in winter and early spring. There are also major challenges, namely that many low places, sand roads and hiking trails are routinely flooded this time of year.

Still, when the subject of the Dunes comes up, most people rightly think about sand. Hard to believe, but it’s mostly about water, beginning with the ocean, of course, which continuosly delivers and redistributes the sand to beaches up and down the coast, or “stores it” not far offshore, bringing it back in summer.

Then there’s fresh water, falling in rainy tons through winter and spring, coursing endlessly from mountains near and far. Along the way the runoff picks up silt and sand – fine grains of various minerals – which is tumbled seaward, only to be scoured and polished by the relentless ocean and washed ashore again to create beaches and dunes.

Although most of the water eventually flows into rivers and estuaries, some of it is slowed by more than 30 coastal lakes, and some soaks into the sand, replenishing a vast aquifer underlying what’s called the dunal sheet.

You can’t travel far without encountering water, be it salt, “sweet” or a brackish mixture. Still, the dunes are best known for dreamy reaches of sculpted sand, shifting by day and by season. The dune shapes actually change, and are described with such technical terms as transverse, oblique and parabola. Another unique feature are 11 “tree islands,” isolated remnants of older coastal forests now surrounded by sand.

What’s becoming less common are wide open stretches of sand, thanks to intrusion of European beach grass, planted to stabilize embankments of coastal rivers, but now a nuisance. Along with Scotch Broom – another invasive -- it spreads over more open sand every year. A multi-agency and public partnership currently under way is aptly called Save the Dunes.

Dealing with flooded roads, campgrounds and other low areas are among the many management issues faced by administrators of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area (ODNRA), who must also strike a balance between areas open to all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) and sections closed to vehicles.

Most ATVers bring their own toys, and there are rental places at most access areas. Many campgrounds, such as the Boxcar Hill facility and the Horsfall Beach area campgrounds, are set up specifically for ATV access.

Most ATV accesses are easily reached from US 101. The Horsfall Beach access is an exception. The main access road is often flooded this time of year, although high-clearance vehicles can be seen fording the flooded section and continuing to the beach.

Here are directions: From the north end of North Bend, cross McCullough Bridge. In 0.9 mile turn left (W) on Trans Pacific Parkway. Follow it across a causeway, over a short bridge and across two sets of railroad tracks. Boxcar Hill is on the right (N), and just past it is the entrance to the Horsfall Beach access. A $5 daily fee or annual pass is required here and at most other ODNRA accesses.

Other ATV accesses include Ranch County Park near Hauser, the ODNRA Spinreel Campground near Lakeside; and Douglas County campgrounds at Half Moon Bay and Windy Cove in Winchester Bay.

Hikers and equestrians can explore trails throughout the dunes, and fat-tire bicyclists are also frequently seen.

The most popular hike is the ODNRA Dellenback Dunes trail just off US 101 near Lakeside. Not far from there is the ODNRA Hall Lake area. In both places you might see the strange seasonal sand shapes called yardangs that occur along exposed ridgelines. Another unusual winter occurrence are active “sandfalls” or slipfaces that send down rain-soaked sections of sand, often leaving behind symmetrical flow patterns.

As might be deduced, there’s a lot more than sand in the Oregon Dunes. So whether it’s your first time or your fiftieth visit, you can have fun exploring this special place so close at hand, just “out our back door.”

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of regional guidebooks.)

The beaches north and south of Winchester Bay epitomize much of the southern Oregon coast. Perhaps the most significant aspect in terms of recreational use is that vehicles are allowed in some places and off-limits in others.

The stretch of sandy shoreline south of Winchester Bay is called Ziolkouski Beach, and the surrounding area is the Umpqua Dunes. The beach is closed to vehicles, while the adjacent dunes are a favorite with all-terrain vehicle (ATV) riders.

The recreational opportunities actually begin at the Umpqua River’s distinctive, triangle-shaped south jetty. As are other coastal jetties, the Umpqua River’s south jetty is a popular surfing spot, so when conditions are right, you’ll often see hardy souls in wetsuits coming or going (or out on the water).

The jetty area is a Douglas County Park called Half Moon Bay. (Day-use and camping fees required.) Continuing south, the beach and dunes are part of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area (ODNRA). A $5 daily use fee or annual pass is required. There are two beach accesses, one with a wheelchair-accessible trail and overlook.

As for the beach, whether you start at the south jetty or at one of the accesses, it’s possible to walk south on a vehicle-free beach for nearly 10 miles to Ten Mile Creek.

The beach on the north side of the Umpqua River mouth is part of the ODNRA Sparrow Park dunes access. No fees or permits required. The access road from US 101 is only 3.7 miles, but it has some of the worst potholes anywhere. High-clearance vehicles recommended. As for the beach, it’s often regarded as a secret for locals who visit after storms in search of glass fishing floats or in better weather for that even more elusive prize: razor clams. Don’t tell them you heard it here.

Getting There

Winchester Bay/ Ziolkouski Beach area: From US 101 in Winchester Bay, go west on Salmon Harbor Drive and follow it past the harbor, campgrounds and ATV rental places to the jetty, dunes and beaches.

Sparrow Park Road: From US 101 and Highway 38 in Reedsport, go north about 4 miles and turn left (W) on Sparrow Park Road. The road – not too bad at first -- swings north, then descends into deeper woods.

The road continues west and crosses the ODNRA boundary. Potholes worsen. Also be alert on this one-lane road for vehicles coming at you at various speeds.

About 3.2 miles is a trail to Three Mile Lake. (An easy hike of about 1 mile up, down and through some fine coastal forest to the 64-acre lake.)

Around a few more turns is the beach, with a small parking area but no facilities.

Four-wheel-drive street-legal vehicles equipped with an orange safety flag are allowed on the beach.

It’s about 1.1 miles south to Clambed Sand Road, which provides vehicle access to the north bank of the Umpqua River. Or stick to the beach for another approximately 4 miles to the Umpqua River’s north jetty.

To the north, it’s possible to drive up the beach several miles to the vehicle-free Tahkenitch Creek area.

Whether strolling or driving on the beach, be mindful of the tides, since they can flood in right up to the foredunes. And as always be alert for sneaker waves.

Otherwise have fun checking out little-visited beaches and other treasures around Winchester Bay, “right out our back door.”

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of local guidebooks.)