chatsimple
Return to Cape Arago
Tom Baake

A solitary visitor enjoys a walk along Sunset Bay.

Washed out for a short stretch during fierce storms in January, the road to Cape Arago and Shore Acres State Parks near Charleston has been repaired and reopened. But during the closure I couldn’t help recalling that old saying: You don’t miss your water till your well runs dry.

Yes, I tend to take it for granted. Postcard-perfect Sunset Bay. World-famous Shore Acres. Amazing geology. Spectacular crashing waves. Fun pocket beaches and coves. Clifftop Oregon Coast Trail. Historic pack trail and WWII bunkers. Simpson Reef sea lion overlook. Picnic tables strategically placed for maximum views. Fascinating tidepools.

There really is a lot to see.

This occurred to me as I was taking a quick inventory of all those things and places just mentioned. It was like seeing old friends again.

I started near Shore Acres, since the now-fixed washout was in that vicinity.

Thanks to all the recent rain, the Shore Acres gardens were practically vibrating with greenery and blossoms about to burst.

In addition to a traditional English garden kept neat and trim and embellished with a seasonal progression of plants and flowers, there’s a Japanese-inspired garden with a sunken pool. A glass greenhouse houses humidity-loving “air plants” and other specimens. A rose garden is a seasonal attraction, and there’s an adjacent herb garden.

Below and just south of Shore Acres is Simpson Beach, with seething surf and cliffs of embedded geological formations called concretions.

The Oregon Coast Trail (OCT) traverses approximately four miles of headlands from Sunset Bay to Cape Arago, passing Shore Acres and the other features. You can also access the OCT from pullouts along Cape Arago Highway.

The road passes a group campground, then goes by Norton Gulch before heading up again. Next is a turnout that features the best view of Cape Arago Lighthouse. Here too is the original entrance to the Shore Acres estate. You can still walk it, but take the foot trail out along the clifftop bluffs as it offers killer views, more weird geology, and the estate’s tennis court.

Not far along from Shore Acres is the northern trailhead of the Cape Arago Pack Trail. About 1/3rd mile up the trail are the WWII bunkers -- windowless and roofless concrete buildings. This historic trail then heads up into the hills and rolls along a ridgeline before descending to Cape Arago State Park. Meantime, back on Cape Arago Highway, next up is the Simpson Reef sea lion overlook, with multitudes of the yowling critters vying for territory on the little reef island and outcrops.

Not far past there is the tip of the cape, with more breathtaking views and paths down to three coves, the southernmost one featuring tidepools.

Although this a lot of fun, it isn’t even a full list of the potential opportunities. For example, I didn’t even mention three beaches: Bastendorff, Smelt and Lighthouse, nor did I have room for details of two inspiring hikes.

It should also be noted that as of Jan. 1, the parking fee at Shore Acres is now $10. (This is per carload. Entrance is still free.) Also, you can still park by the entrance and walk in for free.

So outfit yourself with waterproof footgear and appropriate outerwear and go ahead and visit Shore Acres or any of the other famous places. You’ll have them practically to yourself.

I’m not exaggerating. This has happened to me more than once – and again the other day – when I go out to the cape on a calm winter day to find not a single soul out and about. The ocean lay as flat as a carpet clear to the horizon, so there weren’t even any stormwatchers. Not at Shore Acres, not at Sunset Beach, not at the sea lion overlook, not at the cape. Very Twilight Zone-y. Where the heck was everyone? Ah well, they’ll be back soon enough, and there’s plenty of scenery to go around. Enjoy it!

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of local guidebooks.)